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An Introduction to Dog Body Language

By Alina Jumabhoy

An Introduction to Dog Body Language

Photo by Show 131/ CC

Image courtesy of Johann @ Pexels

Have you ever wished that you could really understand what your dog is trying to tell you?

Well, you can! It all comes down to dog body language. Dog's make use of a wide range of different body signals that can tell you exactly what they are feeling and thinking.

Sometimes, what you may think your dog is trying to tell you could be the complete opposite, which is why it is so important to have an understanding of dog body language.

Of course, you could be studying this for years and still not know all there is to know, but here are some dog body language tips to get started with...

A WAGGING TAIL DOESN'T NECESSARILY MEAN A HAPPY DOG

If a dog is wagging his tail, then this means that he is happy, right?

In some cases, yes, but, in others, definitely not.

This is one of the biggest misconceptions when it comes to dog body language, as tail wagging can mean quite a few different things.

The key is to look at how the tail is being wagged:

  • Held high with a stiff wag – this means that the dog is agitated and is not going to submit, which could result in a bite. This is especially the case if the dog's ears are also up

  • A low and slow wag – this could be a sign that the dog is nervous or scared

  • A large and loose wag – this is a sign that the dog is friendly and happy

  • A low and rigid wag – this could mean that the dog is fearful

WHAT ARE THOSE EARS TELLING YOU?

It doesn't matter whether your dog's ears are long and floppy or short and erect. Those ears can tell you so much about what your dog is feeling.

How?

Take a look at the base of your dog's ear, along with the direction that this has moved in.

If the base of the ears have moved forward, then this means that the dog is alert. The ears will also usually be pointing in the direction of whatever has caught your dog's interest. Ears that move out to the side are a sign of uncertainty and worry. Ears that are held just slightly back show that your dog is feeling relaxed. If your dog's ears are held tightly back, then this means that your dog is worried but is willing to appease you.

THE SUBMISSIVE GRIN

A labrador doing a submissive grin, which is an example of dog body language
Photo by Show 131/ CC

Have you ever noticed your dog showing all of his teeth and “smiling” when he greets certain visitors?

This can sometimes be a frightening sight, as it can easily be mistaken for a snarl.

However, this is actually called a submissive grin, and is the complete opposite of a snarl.

Your dog does the submissive grin in order to show others that she is not a threat, and is instead being fully submissive. This will usually be accompanied by a few other submissive signs, from lifting a paw to licking the lips to squinting the eyes.

Many owners find the submissive grin incredibly cute. There is nothing wrong with turning this impulsive grin into a learned behavior.

How can you train your dog to grin on command?

Every time your dog grins, say a cue word, such as “smile” or “cheese”, and then give your dog a treat. It will not take long before your dog associates the cue word with the grinning action. Soon, your dog will be able to smile whenever he is asked to. Imagine all of the hilarious photos you will be able to take after teaching your dog this trick!

RAISED HACKLES

Just like the submissive grin, many people initially think that if a dog raises his hackles, this means that he is being aggressive.

This is not strictly true.

The hackles, which refers to the hairs that run from the neck down the backbone, all the way to the tail, end up raised when a dog is stimulated. This could be caused by anything from a frightening clap of thunder to the excitement of a visitor. Fearful dogs can also raise their hackles when they are afraid.

This isn't something that dogs do consciously. Instead, it happens in the same way that the hairs on our arms stand when we experience a burst of adrenaline.

So, how do you know why your dog has his hackles raised?

Again, this is why understanding more about dog body language is important. Take a look at the other parts of your dog's body, from the tail to the ears to the mouth. This will give you a better picture of what your dog is really feeling. 

LEARNING ABOUT THE SIGNS OF STRESS IN A DOG

When a dog is stressed out, this will immediately show up in his body language. However, the cues can sometimes be quite subtle. This means that many owners miss them unless they know exactly what to look for. 

So, how do you know if your dog is feeling stressed?

  • Excessive panting, even though it is not hot

  • Yawning, as this is a way for dogs to calm themselves down

  • Lifting a front paw when approached

  • Excessive lip licking

  • Scratching himself unnecessarily

If your dog also starts to drool, pace, whine or tuck his tail underneath his body, then these are signs that your dog is experiencing fear as well as stress.

It goes without saying that if you see a dog experiencing this, you need to try to diffuse the stressful or fearful situation as much as you can. Rather than punishing the dog, try to work out the root cause of the stress so that you can work on this together.

In order to be a responsible pet owner, you do need to have a basic understanding of dog body language. This is something well worth spending some time learning. Not only will it come in handy time and time again in terms of training, but it will also help to strengthen the bond between you and your pooch.

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Dealing With Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety

By Alina Jumabhoy

Dealing With Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety

Photo by Show 131/ CC

Image courtesy of dramitkarkare @ Pixabay

One of the most common behavioral problems that dogs experience is separation anxiety. This disorder affects between 20% to 40% of all dogs, and can be quite challenging to treat. However, separation anxiety will only worsen when left ignored, making it important for you to take the steps necessary to deal with your dog's separation anxiety as soon as possible.

WHAT EXACTLY IS SEPARATION ANXIETY?

Separation anxiety is exactly what it sounds like – anxiety experienced by a dog when he has been separated from his owner.

Dogs are social animals. They naturally want company, whether this may be from a human or another dog.

This means that life can seem quite difficult for them when they are left alone, leading to them becoming extremely anxious.

This anxiety can manifest in a number of different ways, with the most common symptoms of separation anxiety in dogs being:

  • Going to the toilet in the house, even if the dog is toilet trained

  • Destructive behaviors, such as chewing, digging or destroying items around the house

  • Pacing around the house

  • Escaping, whether this may be from a cage or from the house itself

  • Excessive panting

  • Excessive barking, whining or howling

As you can see, separation anxiety isn't much fun for your dog. It causes so much distress to both dog and owner, making this a problem that needs to be solved quickly.

GETTING YOUR DOG USED TO BEING ON HIS OWN

Dog at home without separation anxiety
Photo by Show 131/ CC

The first step in tackling separation anxiety requires you to go back to basics.

Before your dog can be comfortable with being left on his own for a few hours, he needs to be happy being left on his own for a few minutes.

Begin by preparing the area you normally leave your dog in, in the same way you would when you leave the house. Put your dog in the area, preferably with a tasty treat, and then leave him to it.

Give him two to three minutes on his own before returning. It is important to ensure that you return while your dog is still quiet and happy, before the anxiety starts to build.

Repeat those steps a few times each day.

Once your dog is okay with being left alone for a few minutes, you can gradually increase this time. Go from five minutes to ten, and then twenty, before working your way up to an hour.

What should you do if your dog starts showing signs of separation anxiety while you are following the above steps?

This just means that you need to slow down a bit. Take a step back and go back to the amount of time your dog was comfortable being left alone for. 

Keep working on this and increase it at a slower rate than you did before.

COUNTER-CONDITIONING

As mentioned above, leaving your dog with a treat whenever you leave the house can be quite a useful little trick.

How?

Because this helps your dog to associate you leaving with something more positive.

Ideally, you should try to use a treat that will keep your dog occupied for as long as possible. Stuffed Kongs or food puzzle toys are great for this.

However, keep in mind that this will only work for dogs with mild separation anxiety.

Why?

Because severe separation anxiety causes too much stress for a dog to eat.

CRATE TRAINING

Research suggests that it only takes between five and ten minutes for an anxious dog to calm down when placed inside a crate.

When used in the right way, a crate is a cozy little den in which a dog will feel completely safe in. Placing your dog in a crate before leaving him alone can help to keep your dog calm while you are away.

Is your dog not crate trained?

This is usually something that they pick up on quite easily. Make sure that your dog thinks of the crate as a positive place, rather than as a punishment. Try feeding your dog in his crate when crate training, and make sure that any special treats are given in the crate too. All of this will help your dog to associate the crate with positive feelings.

DE-SENSITIZING

If your dog has separation anxiety, you will likely have noticed that symptoms begin showing before you have even left the house.

How does your dog know that you are getting ready to leave?

Because there will be a number of cues that tell him so, and this then triggers the anxiety to begin. Anything from putting your shoes on to picking up your keys can cause worry for your dog. This will then escalate as time goes on. 

The best way to put a stop to this is by de-sensitizing your dog to these cues.

This means that you may need to put your shoes on several times a day for a few weeks. You may also need to keep picking up your car keys before putting them back down. You should also practice leaving your dog in the place you keep him while you are away. However, make sure that you do not actually leave your dog alone when working on de-sensitizing him.

MUSIC

There is quite a bit of recent research out there that shows how music is able to really help calm a dog down.

In fact, it does this to such an extent that many dog shelters are now playing music to help keep their dogs happier. This also means they are more likely to be adopted. 

Calming tunes tend to be best, but just about anything will do. Try leaving the radio or TV on before leaving the house. This should provide enough background noise while you are out to help your dog settle. 

It can be easy to try to ignore separation anxiety at first, believing that your dog's behavior will get better on its own. However, more often than not, the opposite is true, and symptoms will only get worse as time goes on. Although there is no quick fix to dealing with your dog's separation anxiety, consistently working with your dog on this by following the steps above can really help your dog slowly adjust to being left on his own.

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Mental Stimulation for Dogs – 5 Creative Ideas

By Alina Jumabhoy

Mental Stimulation for Dogs – 5 Creative Ideas

Photo by Show 131/ CC

Image courtesy of Kat Jane @ Pexels

While physical exercise is definitely important, mental stimulation for dogs will enrich your pup's life in a different way, keeping their brains focused and challenged. A mentally stimulated dog is one that won't get bored and become destructive – something that many frustrated dog owners are struggling with.

Since every dog is individual, different brain games will have different effects on each dog. This makes it important to experiment with a variety to ensure that you find a few that really keep your dog's brain challenged. 

Need some inspiration?

Here are five creative ways to mentally stimulate your pooch:

A TREASURE HUNT

Dogs naturally love to hunt, so setting up a treasure hunt at home for your pooch is a great way to encourage your dog to use his nose as well as his brain.

Make it easy to start with, telling your dog to sit and stay while you hide one of your pooch's favorite treats somewhere around your home. It can help to have your dog see where you hide the treat the first few times, as this will teach him what the game is all about. 

Once the treat is hidden, give your dog a cue to go and find it.

It won't take long for your pup to figure this game out. Once he does, you can then make it more difficult. Try hiding the treat in places where your pooch has to really use his nose to find them. Underneath food dishes or at the bottom of a pile of laundry are places that work well. 

This is a great brain game for dogs to play outdoors too, although you may need to place the treats in a closer proximity, as there are so many other distracting scents outside!

Have a multi-dog household?

This is a form of mental stimulation for dogs that they can all play together – just hide multiple treats around your home and let them all hunt for them at the same time.

THE CUP GAME

The cup game is one that you have probably seen before. It requires at least three identical plastic cups, along with dog treats.

All you need to do is hide a treat underneath a cup, letting your dog watch you do this. Then, shuffle the cups around so that your dog doesn't know which cup the treat is hiding under.

Once you are done, allow your dog to sniff the cups and choose which one is hiding the treat.

This is an effective method for enhancing a dog's problem solving skills, while keeping the brain active and attentive.

Is your dog finding the treats too easily?

Add more cups into the game to amp up the challenge a bit. When it comes to mental stimulation for dogs, you will need to always tailor your methods to your dog's individual needs. 

THE MUFFIN TIN GAME

For this brain game, you will need:

  • A muffin tin
  • Enough dog balls or toys to fill each hole in the tin

Place a treat into a few of the holes.

Wondering what treats to use?

Try a biscuit, a dollop of peanut butter, or small pieces of dried meat. Then, cover all of the holes with the dog toys you have selected. Tennis balls work great. They tend to fit perfectly into each hole, requiring the dog to really concentrate when removing each ball.

Your dog will then need to figure out where the treats are hiding, and remove each toy in order to access the treats. 

THE NAME GAME

How many words does your dog know?

For many pets, this will only be a handful of words, usually the ones that are used most commonly, such as “sit”, “stay”, “food”, and other similar terms.

However, did you know that the average well-trained dog knows around 160 different words? In fact, there is one famous border collie who knows over 1000 words, including 800 of her toys.

Teaching your dog different words is a fantastic form of mental stimulation for dogs, and is such an easy way to keep their brains active.

Begin with your dog's toys, making sure that they are visually different enough for your dog to be able to distinguish between them.

Choose one toy to begin with, such as “brown bear”. Then, encourage your dog to play with you and that toy, repeating the name brown bear constantly as you play. The repetition is important, as this will help to drill the name of the toy into your dog's head.

Once you have repeated the name around 30 times, place the toy next to another one. Then, ask your dog to go and get the brown bear. Give your pooch plenty of praise and a treat if he gets it right immediately. 

What happens if your pup picks the wrong toy?

Don't say anything, and instead just place the toy back next to the brown bear and repeat your command. When he does reach for the right toy, showering your pooch with praise will cement the toy's name in his brain.

Once your dog knows the name of one toy, you can then move on to the next. Don't rush things - take it slowly to work on steadily building up your dog's vocabulary. This is such an effective form of mental stimulation for dogs, as it will really keep your dog thinking. 

TAKE YOUR DOG WITH YOU WHEN RUNNING ERRANDS

Many people tend to leave their dogs at home when off running errands, whether this may be heading to the post office, a friend's house, or even the car wash.

However, all of these are activities that will stimulate your dog's brain. 

Even if it is just a car ride, your dog's brain will be working so hard to process all that he sees around him. You will likely find that you have a pooped out pooch once you return home.

Don't have any errands to run?

Try taking your dog for a quick drive through some varied areas. Stopping off at a drive-through car wash will add even more excitement to your pup's day. 

Many underestimate the importance of mental stimulation for dogs, but this could really have a huge impact on your dog's behaviour. Each of the brain games mentioned above can be adapted and tailored to your dog's specific needs, so give them a try the next time you think your pooch may be getting bored. There are many other techniques out there when it comes to mental stimulation for dogs, so get creative!

Does your dog have any favorite brain games? We would love to hear about them, so please do share your ideas in the comments section below!

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Making It Through Christmas: Dog Safety Tips

By Hope Hammond

Making It Through Christmas: Dog Safety Tips

Photo by Show 131/ CC

Courtesy of User: 947051 @ Pixabay

Good food, presents, and lovely music! The holidays are a wonderful time of year for everyone, including your dog and cat. However, there are aspects of this season that can be dangerous to your pets. From Christmas trees to cold weather, let's take a look at some important dog safety tips to keep in mind during the holidays.

Christmas Decorations Pose a Hazard

Dogs can be just as attracted to the bright, colorful decorations you put on the Christmas tree as cats. Make sure to hang tinsel, garland, and ornaments up high on the tree where your pet can't reach. You might even want to use a smaller tree and put it up on a pedestal if your dog just doesn't want to leave your decorations alone.
Why do you want to keep your pet from nibbling on parts of the Christmas tree? Well, almost all of it is bad for your furry friend!

  • Tinsel can cause a bowel obstruction and even cut your pet's intestines if made from a thicker material.
  • Ornaments also cause bowel obstructions. Fragile glass globes can break if they fall and cut your pet's feet.
  • Christmas lights are electrical hazards, especially for teething puppies looking for something to chew on.
  • Pine needles from live trees puncture the intestines if swallowed.
  • Christmas trees can also fall onto your pets and hurt them if they pull on the tree or even try to climb it.
  • Additives for Christmas tree water may be poisonous if your pets drink it.
  • Lit candles can burn pets and some chew on the wax, which can cause an intestinal blockage in large quantities.
  • Liquid potpourri is a chemical that may burn or damage your pet's mouth and nose.
  • Dried potpourri may damage or cut your pet's digestive tract if eaten.

Dangers of Holiday Plants

It seems like dogs and cats are inevitably drawn to the live plants you put on display in your home. This is thanks to an instinct to seek out roughage for their diet. They like to chew and eat the leaves and flowers, and some pets may also attempt to eat leaves when they aren't feeling well. Unfortunately, many holiday plants are poisonous. When pets eat or nibble on these leaves it could mean a trip to the veterinarian.
If you have a dog, be sure to keep such plants out of reach. You might want to put the pots up on a table or tall, sturdy shelf that the dog can't knock over or jump on. Some toxic plants commonly seen around the holidays are:

  • Amaryllis
  • Poinsettia
  • Lilies
  • Daffodils
  • Mistletoe
  • Balsam
  • Pine
  • Cedar
  • Holly

It should also be noted that the leaves of the Christmas Cactus are very tough and fibrous, which can cause stomach and intestinal irritation. It may cause your pet to vomit or have diarrhea, but it's not generally toxic.

The Temptation of Holiday Dinners

Yes, the dog will make those sad, soulful eyes and whine at you from under the dinner table. But, it's vital that you don't give in! The best dog safety tips for the holidays say avoid giving pets human food! Sneaking treats to your pets during the holidays can be more harmful than usual. Those dishes on your table are very rich in fat and sugar. Plus, they likely contain ingredients that are toxic to pets, such as:

  • Onions
  • Raisins
  • Grapes
  • Chocolate
  • Xylitol

If you're having a turkey for Christmas dinner do not feed your dog any of the bones or skin. Bird bones form sharp splinters which lodge in the throat, stomach, and intestines. These perforations may require surgery to fix and both items can also cause pancreatitis in your dog.
Moderate to large amounts of bread and uncooked dough can also cause stomach upset and gas, which nobody wants to interrupt a celebration!

Dog Safety Tips for Helping Your Dog De-Stress

For some dogs, the holidays are a source of stress. First the house changes, then you put on loud music and start acting differently. Any visitors you have over for dinner or a holiday party are additional stressors that can get your pet barking, pacing, and panting with anxiety. If you are worried about your furry friend's state of mind, there are a few ways to help your dog calm down:
Play Soft, Soothing Music: Low frequency, slow tempo music with a simple pattern is calming for your dog. There are even some doggy music CDs developed specifically for this purpose.
Sit With Your Pet: Take a break from the holiday preparations and party to sit with your pooch on the couch. Petting your dog's fur can ease anxiety for the both of you.
Take a Walk: Sometimes, too much excitement makes dogs hyper and stressed. Give your dog a nice long walk before the holiday dinner to use up their excess energy.
Put the Dog in the Kennel: Put your pet up in his or her kennel or another room if you don't have a dog cage. The kennel is your pet's safe place away from all of the noise and activity of a party. Plus, if your pet doesn't like a lot of attention, this gives him or her a place to hide.

Keeping Pets Warm Enough

The last, but not least of our dog safety tips is keeping your dog warm enough during the cold weather. While this doesn't apply specifically to holiday celebrations, you'll want to be aware of your pet's comfort on chilly evenings. Bring him or her inside for the winter, or give your pet a cozy dog house with ample insulation and wind protection. When you take your dog out for walks, consider putting your pet into a dog coat with booties to protect from the ice and snow. It's true that dogs are covered in fur, but many breeds lack the undercoat necessary to insulate their bodies properly. Plus, their ears, nose, and paws are exposed and can develop frostbite.
When your dog comes in from outside, take a few minutes to dry their coat and paws with a towel. Sometimes, snow and ice can get packed in between their paw pads, which is very uncomfortable and worsens the chances of frostbite. So, keep an eye on these sensitive areas.
If your dog is really anxious or tends to get into holiday trouble, such as destroying your Christmas tree, obedience training can be helpful. The 'Training an Untrained Dog: Video Course' takes you quickly and easily through several dog training tips and techniques to teach your dog to leave it, drop it, and go to his or her kennel when asked!

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Everything You Need To Know About Feeding Puppies

By Hope Hammond

Everything You Need To Know About Feeding Puppies

Photo by Show 131/ CC

Courtesy of Chiemsee2016 @ Pixabay

So, you have a new puppy! You can look forward to many years of companionship and love with your new found friend. But, while he or she is still young that puppy will rely heavily on you. At this stage, your most important roles will be cleaning up after and feeding your friend round the clock. Don't be alarmed though. Feeding puppies the right food in the right quantities is something that can be managed by anyone with the proper research and attention to detail.

Feeding Milk To Newborn Puppies

Most of the time, the puppy's mother will provide all of the care and milk that a newborn could want. If you happen to be in the position of "mothering" a newborn puppy alone, you'll end up being the one to feed it. A consultation with the veterinarian is a must to get an exam and advice on feeding your pup. Generally, the vet will recommend a commercial canine milk replacer that is formulated specifically for puppies. The puppy will likely need to be syringe or bottle-fed once every two hours and won't eat very much at a time.
SIDE NOTE: Puppies can't get the nutrients they need from regular cow milk or milk from another animal! You must use canine milk replacer formula.

When To Give Dry Food To Puppies?

Puppies should be fully transitioned to dry food by seven or eight weeks old. However, you can start gradually incorporating dry kibble into their milk around four weeks old. Soak a small amount of kibble in milk replacer or water and blenderize or mash it to the consistency of gruel. Place this on the floor for the puppy several times a day, while still bottle feeding. It may take the puppy a while to figure out how to eat this semi-solid food. As they get the hang of it, gradually reduce the amount of liquid in the kibble until they are eating dry kibble. Congratulations! You've successfully transitioned your pup to dry food!

How Often To Feed Puppies?

After your pup is on solid puppy food, you should keep up a regular feeding schedule of about four times daily between the ages of six to 12 weeks. By this time, your puppy will start to look more like a young adult dog. Start decreasing feeding to about three times a day, but you might want to increase the quantity of the food at each meal for larger breeds.
At six months old, you'll want to cut back to twice daily feedings for your dog. When your pup reaches one year old, and perhaps a few months before then, you'll want to make the transition to adult dog food. If your furry friend acts like he or she wants more food at meals and completely empties the bowl, you may need to increase the quantity.
If your dog doesn't eat all of his or her food, it could mean that their appetite is decreasing now that they aren't growing as much. As long as your dog is in otherwise good health, you can probably cut down the portion sizes some to eliminate any waste.

How To Make Homemade Puppy Food

If you don't trust store brand puppy food, or your puppy has allergies and sensitivities, you may be interested in making homemade puppy food. There is a formula to follow when combining ingredients to your homemade mash that ensures a growing pup gets everything he or she needs. Err on the side of caution by consulting with a veterinarian and doing a lot of research into recipes before you start. This way you'll avoid creating a nutrient deficiency or overdose when feeding puppies. However, the general amounts of different ingredients are as follows:
50% Protein
10% Vegetable or Fruit Matter
35% High-Fiber Carbohydrates
5% Fats
Nutritional Supplements
The kind of supplements to add to the puppy food will depend on your veterinarian's recommendation. So, be careful of adding anything without their approval.
Cooking these ingredients is important to prevent food poisoning and make it easier to digest. Usually, you can just combine all of the ingredients and saute the mix over medium heat until fully cooked through. Make sure to finely dice all of the ingredients, or else place them in the blender after cooking to create a mash. This makes it much easier for your pup to chew when first learning to eat.

Is It Okay To Give Puppies Table Scraps?

Newborn puppies are unlikely to express much interest in any solid human food. As your pup gets older, he or she may start to notice what you are eating and want to try it out. Of course, feeding your dog table scraps is an easy way to give them bad habits and may set him or her up for obesity. Since you are raising a puppy, this is a great opportunity to establish hard and fast rules about human food to keep them from constantly shadowing the dinner table. If you do feel like sharing, consider some healthier, low-calorie options, such as sliced carrots or apple pieces that older puppies and dogs can chew on.

Tips for Feeding Puppies!

Feeding puppies is a surprisingly involved process, especially while they are still very young. But, to make things easier for you, here are a few additional tips when making those meals!

  • #1 Puppies should be transitioned to adult-sized portions around three months old, but every dog is different. You'll know that it's time to adjust their food when the puppy starts looking less pudgy and round, and more like a miniature version of an adult dog.
  • #2 Adjust the amount of food you give a puppy downwards in comparison to the number of treats you feed them. Many pet owners will use food treats as rewards when training. This is fine. Just remember that it can ruin the pup's appetite for dinner.
  • #3 Don't leave food out all the time. Put it down in a bowl at consistent points throughout the day for ten to twenty minutes at a time. This will help your puppy to establish a good schedule.
  • #4 You should have fresh water available all the time for the puppy. Of course, pups who are still bottle-fed won't be very interested in the water yet.
  • #5 Be careful of adding supplements to a regular diet of store-bought puppy food. The food should already have enough nutrients for a growing pup and extra supplements can result in a potential overdose.

Like with all aspects of having a dog, learning about feeding puppies and figuring out the right methods take research. As your pup grows up, you'll also want to begin the training process. Find out more about how to start building a strong relationship with your pet with a good routine via the "Training an Untrained Dog" video course. This easy, effective video series shows you how to handle many challenges of pet ownership.

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A Dog Collar Versus a Dog Harness

By Hope Hammond

A Dog Collar Versus a Dog Harness

Photo by Show 131/ CC

Courtesy of Juzal @ Pixabay

When you walk your dog, you'll likely use a type of collar or harness to attach the leash to your pet. This pet accessory is vital to maintaining control of your dog while outside and is also essential for ensuring your dog's safety. However, many people aren't sure which is really the better option. Each serves a purpose and may be better depending on your needs.
Let's start by looking at the different kinds of dog harnesses and collars.

Different Types of Dog Harnesses

Dog harnesses are growing in popularity among owners. These tools allow pet owners to walk their dogs securely without the risk of choking them. Many harnesses are also designed to train dogs not to pull on the leash or walk in front of their person. Harnesses are preferred for certain breeds, such as pugs, which already have short muzzles and restricted airways.  
There are a few main types of dog harnesses that you might want to review before selecting one for your pet:

Front Clip Harnesses

These harnesses feature the clip for your dog's leash on the front of the harness near the throat. Many trainers recommend this for pet owners who want to keep their dogs from running ahead.

Back Clip Harnesses

These feature the leash clip on the dog's back. It is more convenient for pet owners to attach the leash to their dog. Back clip harnesses are meant primarily for older dogs and those who are already trained to walk calmly.

Control Harnesses

When your dog really pulls hard on the leash these harnesses help remind him or her to slow down and refocus attention on you. One type of control harness has a clip and a special leash with two leads. The leash attaches one end to the front of the harness and one to the back of the harness so that the dog is pulled sideways towards you when it tries to walk ahead of you. Another type of control harness is a tightening harness that tightens and adds pressure when the dog pulls away from you.

Head Halter

Not a harness, but the halter is designed to attach to the dog's head and go around the base of his or her muzzle. This harness is designed to help speed up the training process and help keep your pet from lunging at other animals and people. The harness will physically pull your dog's head and muzzle down and towards you, which makes it difficult for your pet to keep moving forward. This is a very gentle tool to slow down dogs that tend to lunge and strain at the leash.

Different Types of Dog Collars

By far the most commonly seen form of fashion on dogs are collars. Even dogs who wear harnesses during their walks may still wear a collar the rest of the time. Dog collars serve double-duty these days as a place to attach a leash, and to hold a dog registration tag and their rabies license. Collars should really only be used for walks when your dog is calm and well-trained. Otherwise, he or she will have a tendency to strain against the collar and leash dragging you wherever they want to go and potentially hurting themselves.
Let's take a look at some of the more popular dog collars on the market!

Flat Collar

Made from woven fabric or polymer threads, these flat or rolled collars are soft and flexible. This makes them comfortable for dogs to wear all the time. A flat collar attaches to the dog's throat via a buckle or a clip. Be aware that flat collars can catch on brush and fencing and even tighten accidentally around the dog's throat during rough play-housing with other pets.

Choke Chains

The choke chain is intended only for use when training a dog. It is a metal chain that can be tightened and released quickly as a corrective measure. Most trainers are moving away from this particular device. The current practice is to focus on rewarding good behavior, as opposed to punishing bad behavior. Plus, you should never leave a choke chain on a dog. The chain can get caught on fences and other objects by accident and tighten around the dog's throat.

The Prong Collar 

Another training tool that looks almost medieval, the prong color has metal prongs along the inside of a chain collar. The prongs apply even pressure to the dog's throat when jerked on, which keeps the dog from pulling. Not many trainers actually recommend this type of corrective collar.

Pros of a Dog Harness

There are two main reasons for using a dog harness over a collar. The harness is a better option for your dog's health if he or she tends to pull hard on the leash. Straining against a collar can put pressure on your dog's throat. It even raises intraocular pressure, according to a 2006 research study that appeared in the Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association. This can potentially damage the eyes of dogs with glaucoma and weak or thin corneas.
The dog harness also helps combat pulling at the leash, such as with the front-clip harness. You'll have greater control over your pet and have the opportunity to start training him or her to walk calmly.

Pros of a Dog Collar

The dog collar makes a great holder for dog ID tags. It is also easier to put on your dog compared to a harness. You can leave the harness on 24/7 with an adult dog. However, it's not recommended for puppies. They can get caught on something or even hurt their teeth chewing on it. Plus, many pet owners feel like they should remove the harness some of the time, such as at night, for their dog's comfort.
Some dog breeds with very soft, long, or fine hair may have hair thinning on spots where the harness rubs over time. Properly fitted dog collars don't usually have this issue.
If your dog pays attention during walks and doesn't pull, then a flat collar is a fine choice. If you are still leash training, or the dog has problems with pulling, a harness may be a better option. Of course, it's always a good idea to try a couple options out. Over time, you'll discover which works best for you and Fido.
 
When leash training remains a challenge, it might be time to get some guidance. The 'Training an Untrained Dog' video series provides visual examples and in-depth advice that you can use right away to stop your dog from pulling on the leash.

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Crate Training a Puppy: Suggestions for Success!

By Hope Hammond

Crate Training a Puppy: Suggestions for Success!

Photo by Show 131/ CC

Courtesy: PourquoiPas @ Pixabay

You have a new puppy. Great! Now, you need to give your canine friend the love, attention, and training needed to thrive. However, introducing a puppy to the domesticated lifestyle takes time and patience. Your new pet has a lot to learn about living in a human household. There may even be multiple steps involved in learning the basics, such as housebreaking. Sometimes, pet owners opt for crate training a puppy to teach them bladder control and keep them from destroying the house.
When done properly, crate training can be a positive experience and beneficial process for pets.

Create a Den-Like Space

The key to making your pets crate a place they want to be is to turn it into a den. Animals naturally want to have a hideaway where they can seek shelter and feel safe. This is true even for domesticated pets within your home.
Think about the placement of your pet's crate, how big it is, and what kind of objects you'll put into the crate. It's a good idea to put your pet's crate in an area of the home that is used frequently. Dogs often like to spend time with the pack and you are part of their pack. If you stick them in a crate in the back room. The dog will feel left out and may whine more.
Of course, where the crate is positioned within the room is also important. You don't want the dog to feel exposed or trapped. Consider putting the crate along a wall or in a corner where they can observe the entire room.
Ideally, the crate should be large enough for your pet to enter and exit freely, and even turn around inside. However, you don't want it to be so large that they can move around. The extra space may seem like an optional area where they can go to the bathroom. This is a big no-no when you're trying to house train your pet.
Give your pet some nice bedding to sleep on, such as a comfy blanket or even pillow. You may also want to pick up a light throw or blanket to place over the top and sides of the crate. This will create a more protected and cozy feeling when crate training a puppy. Just remember to leave the front exposed so your pet can see what is going on in the room.

Make Slow Introductions When Crate Training a Puppy

Avoid bringing the crate home and just shoving your pup into it right away. This is a scary new experience for dogs who are only familiar with cages at the pet store or animal shelter. Instead, take the time to introduce your pet to their crate.
Try setting the cage up and leaving the door open. Then, walk away and let your puppy investigate this new object at their leisure. You might want to give them in a day or two to get used to the presence of the crate before moving forward.

Make a Positive Association with the Crate

The next step is to help build a positive association with the crate for your pet. Try placing a few treats inside the crate to lure your pet in for a snack or their favorite toy. Remember not to close the door or force the puppy to stay in the crate. At this point, you're simply getting them used to being inside and thinking of the crate as a place where they find good things.
Every time your pet enters the crate or when you place a treat inside, you might want to associate this act with a command, by speaking it out out loud. The command can be 'go to your crate' or something as simple as 'kennel'. This helps gradually train your dog to recognize the word or phrase with entering their crate.
Be careful not to give the puppy rewards for leaving the crate. For instance, praising your dog after they come out of the crate. Instead, put the focus on entering the crate and being inside it.

Gradually Increase Time in the Crate

As your dog gets used entering the crate, you can start increasing the time they spent inside. Begin with short increments, such as 10 minutes or so. You might even want to give your pet his meal in the crate and close the door while they are eating. Be sure to stay close and open the door as soon as the dog finishes, so he or she is free to leave.
Increasing time in the crate is a tricky process. If you push too far, your pet gets upset and starts crying. He or she may even start to associate the crate with negative things, such as being restrained. When this happens you might want to cut the time back until your pet feels comfortable again.
Ten minutes at a time can gradually be increased to 15 minutes, 30 minutes, an hour, and so on. You may need to practice crating your pet several times a day at first. Feel free to experiment with leaving the room for a few minutes at a time to see how your pup does. Just remember to stay close enough that you can hear and let your puppy out if they get upset.

How Much Time is Too Much?

There are people who leave their pets crated all day when at work. However, leaving the dog crated for up to eight hours at a time is not good for your pet. Dogs can become anxious, upset, and even go a little stir crazy when trapped in a confined space. This tool is really meant for crating rambunctious pets overnight, when guests are over, and for short periods of time when you are housetraining a puppy.
Well-behaved, house-trained adult dogs probably don't need to be crated when you are at work. However, it is always a good idea to teach them the command and have the crate available should the need arise for visitors, or trips to the vet.
To ensure that your pet grows up to be a truly happy, friendly dog, you might want to consider further training. The Obedience Training video series uses the RAPT training method to show you specific techniques and methods for a better human-dog partnership. You'll even receive a bonus 30-minute video, the "Secrets Behind Crate Training" when you order.

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Dog Anxiety Treatment: 10 Easy Tips to Try

By Hope Hammond

Dog Anxiety Treatment: 10 Easy Tips to Try

Photo by Show 131/ CC

Courtesy: Winsker at Pixabay

It's so frustrating to see your dog's anxiety, like trembling, pacing, and even tearing up the furniture, and not being able to help your pooch calm down. Calling to your pet and even trying to give him or her food may not work, as animals tend to ignore food when upset. However, you might be able to prevent anxiety and disrupt the cycle with some easy dog anxiety treatment tips. Consider trying out a few of these changes in your home to see if they help your pet relax and enjoy life again.

1. Minimize Loud Noises

One of the most common triggers for anxiety in dogs is noise, especially if it is related to something else unpleasant like a thunderstorm or fight between yourself and your spouse. If you can, minimize the noise level in your home to see if that helps ease your dog's anxieties in the short term. When there is a thunderstorm or fireworks outside, close all the windows, and take your pet to an interior part of the house.

2. Make Sure Your Dog is Eating Regularly

If your dog's meal schedule is irregular, or the food has a lot of chemicals in it, there may be some kind of nutritional cause to your pet's behavior. Irregular or small meals may trigger food guarding and other kinds of nervousness. High carb meals or meals without enough nutrients may even be affecting their physical health by leading to the development of diabetes. If you can, get your pet checked out with the local vet to ensure there are no physical problems that could cause behavioral issues.

3. Give Your Pet a Chance to Rest

If you like taking your pet with you wherever you go and maintain a busy lifestyle, it may be stressing your pet out. Dogs can be high-energy at times, but going from place to place and meeting different people can put a lot of pressure on your pet. Give Fido a break in the form of a few days a week spent relaxing in his or her pet bed at home.

4. Make Sure Your Dog Gets Regular Exercise

On the other hand, you may not be exercising your pet enough. They can have too much energy and no appropriate way of venting it. Every dog needs at least 30 minutes of exercise, preferably in the form of a nice long walk or playtime each day. This wears out your dog, reducing the amount of energy they have to worry or pace, and making them less likely to be destructive.

5. Change Your Signals

Pets pay very close attention to their owners. When you are nervous, tense, or anxious, your dog can pick up on this via your body language. In turn, this makes your dog nervous or more alert about their surroundings. Some owners even tense up in situations that they know triggers their dog's anxiety, which only makes the dog more nervous, leading to a self-perpetuating cycle. If you feel yourself anticipating something negative from your pet and beginning to tense up, take a breath, and force yourself to relax.

6. Change Your Routine

Separation anxiety is another major issue for dogs. It can leave your pet barking, crying, and generally tearing the house apart when you are away. This kind of anxiety is sometimes triggered by cues that your dog notices, such as seeing you get ready to leave the house. If this happens to your pet, try changing up how you get ready to leave each day. Maybe put on your shoes about an hour before you go out, rather than right before, and go sit on the couch to watch some television. Also, avoid making a big deal of going out the door, as this can make your dog more anxious. Simply pick up your coat and bag and go outside without any fanfare.

7. Distract Your Pet

It may be possible to break the cycle of growing anxiety by distracting your pet from whatever is causing it. Set aside a special toy that your pet really likes playing with, and only bring it out during those tense moments. For instance, some pet owners give their dogs a KONG toy filled with treats just before leaving the house. This helps ease separation anxiety by keeping your dog busy during those crucial moments before and after you leave.

8. Minimize Exposure to New People

Some dogs are people shy and may not like meeting strangers or having them come into the home. If your pet is like this, he or she will not want to stay in the same room as a new person. Don't force your pet to meet someone when they aren't ready and give them plenty of places to hide out

9. Give Dogs Their Own Space

Help your pet feel more comfortable in your home and give them a place they can go to relax when they feel anxious or nervous by creating a personal area for them. A dog bed in a nice corner of the room where your pet can observe everything while feeling secure is a good idea. You might even want to have another dog bed in your bedroom if your pet is used to sleeping with you. Instead of letting him or her sleep in your bed, encourage the dog to use his or her bed.

10. Play Soothing Music or Television

Some pet owners find that their dogs are more relaxed if there is some kind of gentle, soothing sound in the room. This can include leaving the radio on with the volume turned low or playing ocean sounds for your pet. You can even turn on Pet TV channels geared towards keeping dogs and cats entertained while you are away.
When anxiety makes your dog act out it can be hard to help them calm back down again, even with these tricks and tips. Obedience training, such as the "Training an Untrained Dog" video series can help you better communicate with your pet, which in turn makes it easier to soothe anxiety and tension.

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How to Teach Your Dog to Play Fetch

By Hope Hammond

How to Teach Your Dog to Play Fetch

Photo by Show 131/ CC

Courtesy: Pexels @ Pixabay

Do you feel jealous when other dog owners throw a frisbee and their pets go running after it? Have you tried to engage your dog in a similar game of fetch and he or she just stares at you? Sure, your dog might not be interested in the game. It's much more likely that there is a miscommunication going on. Your dog simply might not know how to play fetch. So, it's up to you to figure out how to teach your pet to play.

Finding the Right Toy

Almost every dog is interested in some kind of play object. This could be:

  • Knotted Rope
  • A Frisbee
  • A Ball
  • A Stick

First, you'll need to figure out what kind of toy your pet loves the best. It's important that Fido likes chasing and tugging on the toy. Buy a few different things and try them out with your pet to see which one they like chewing on the most. If you already know what kind of toy they like best, great! The next step is starting with the basics.

Tug-Of-War

Once you have figured out what kind of toy the dog is highly focused on and interested in, you can initiate a game of Tug-Of-War. This is an instinctive form of play for many dogs and they really enjoy fighting with you over that play object. Do your best to get them interested in the toy by placing it in front of them or waving it enticingly. Most dogs will want to grab and pull it to try and get it away from you.
Don't let go of the toy. This helps keep the dog engaged and focused on getting that object. Plus, as soon as they get it your dog will be less likely to want to let go, and may even run away from you. The game of tug should be ongoing, and you might even do your darndest to keep the object away from your pet. If it looks like the dog is starting to lose interest, slowdown, and place the object in front of them again to get their attention. Try to keep the game going as long as possible.

The Art Of Letting Go!

You'll want to start incorporating the "Let Go" command into your Tug-Of-War games. A good round of fetch can't happen unless the dog knows to release once he's brought the toy to you. One way you can start incorporating the idea of letting go of the toy is to just hold onto it firmly and not move or encourage your pet. You may even want to make eye contact and stare him or her down until they let go and back off a little.
You won't be making the dog upset. This just forces him or her to refocus their attention to you to see what's going on because you're no longer playing tug. As soon as the dog does this, you'll start waving the toy again and try to your pet back into Tug-Of-War.
Repeat this process a few times until your dog understands and is willing to let go at the signal. You might want to start saying, "let go" or, "release" when you want the dog to stop biting the toy. Eventually, your pet will associate the words with your desire to stop playing tug.

The Throw

Once the dog is familiar with playing Tug-Of-War over the play object, you can start to add the element of throwing the object into the game. Don't throw the toy very far, because that may confuse your dog. Instead, just toss the play object a few feet away and see if your pet goes for it. Your pet should be very focused on the toy before you proceed to this step.
If you have a frisbee, try rolling it on the ground. That kind of movement helps catch a dog's attention, so they'll be inclined to chase it. Continue doing this until your dog is so engaged that he's willing to run after the toy and pick it up.

The Return!

Gradually increase the distance you throw the object as the dog gets better at chasing after it. Do your best to resist the urge to chase after your pet too. Instead, start calling to your pet as soon as he or she picks up the object. Make the calls positive, light, and encouraging. Your dog might come to you right away.
However, this isn't always the case. Once your dog has gotten the highly valued play object, he may want to keep hold of it or may even run off and try to initiate a game of chase with you. Thankfully, there are a few ways to deal with this behavior.

#1 Backing Up

If your dog comes to you, but stops a few feet away, try backing up while encouraging your pet. When your dog reaches the spot where you were initially, you can come back to meet your pet with lots of praise. Soon, he will figure out that you want him to come all the way up to you.

#2 Leash Method

If you own a dog who likes to run off with that toy and doesn't seem to hear you when you call, you might consider using a training leash. These are extra long leashes that give dogs plenty of room to roam, but not get away from you. Keep your dog on a leash and throw the object to a distance that's within his or her range. When your pet picks up the toy, slowly pull the leash in while calling out in a positive way.

#3 Alternative Treats

Should your pet continue resisting your call, add some other type of positive reinforcement. Bring along a to a second toy that your dog really likes and keep it hidden behind your back until your pet picks up the first toy. Show your dog the second toy, while encouraging him or her to come towards you.
Food is also a good potential reward for a pet who comes all the way back. Just keep in mind that if you use treats often your pet may start to expect them as a reward for a trick, rather than learning how to play a game with you.
With time and plenty of practice, your pet will understand the basics of fetch. But, the first method you try doesn't always click. When the game isn't happening, you might have more success using the RAPT method of dog training. It will help you learn how to build a better bond and start Playing Games With Your Dog today!

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How To Stop a Barking Dog

By Hope Hammond

How To Stop a Barking Dog

Photo by Show 131/ CC

Courtesy of Christels @ Pixabay

A constantly barking dog is a real irritation to everyone in the neighborhood. Most people don't want to set off their neighbors so it's of utmost importance to teach your dog a little decorum. There a few ways you can go about teaching your pet to stop barking. But, the best method may be a combination of lifestyle and environmental changes with some obedience training.

What Makes a Dog Bark?

So, you'll need to start by identifying the cause of your canine's hollering before you can eliminate it. Many dogs bark as a form of communication. A yip can mean 'let's play.' A woof can be a bid for more pets. However, these occasional noises don't cause problems. It's when a dog loudly and repeatedly barks without heeding your calls to stop that they really start to annoy people. These barks have a few different causes, such as:

  1. Warning Off Strangers: Dogs view the house and yard as a part of the pack's territory. So, when an animal or stranger comes into it this can trigger barking to alert the whole household.
  2. Anxiety: When dogs get nervous or have separation anxiety, they may bark desperately to try and get you to come to them.
  3. Excitement: A high-strung or energetic dog barks whenever something happens, from visitors to boredom and to play.

How to Make It Stop?

You've got multiple methods for dealing with a barking dog. If your pet is territorial, simply blocking their view of the front yard with curtains, shades, or furniture may work. They will still hear visitors at the door, but won't be as prone to bark at people and animals passing by. Give them an alternate view of the back and side yards, so they can still check out what's going on in the outside world.
Here are a few other easy changes to consider:

  • Don't yell at a barking dog. This may be interpreted as you 'barking' along with your pet.
  • Stay calm and speak softly. If your dog is easily agitated or excited, counter this by being relaxed.
  • Give young, active dogs at least an hour of exercise daily in the form of playtime and walks.
  • Consider giving your dog their food in a slow feeder bowl or an interactive chew toy to keep their minds engaged and distracted.
  • Play the radio or television. It may seem silly to have the TV on for your pet, but a soft background noise can help mask sounds from outside that might trigger barking.
  • Ignore the barking. Not acknowledging it when your pet is going nuts is hard, but this can be the best way to get them to calm down faster.

Following these tips changes the way you interact with your pet and how your pet lives, which can do a lot to minimize barking. These suggestions work especially well for territorial and excitable dogs. With them, it's all about distraction and wearing them out at the dog park.

Desensitization Training

When you have a hard time calming your dog down or he or she is overly excitable and territorial, you might want to try desensitization. You'll have to work closely with a barking dog to get them used to a person or object within their territory. However, the reward is a much calmer and quieter pet.
Let's get started!

  1. Position a friend your dog doesn't know, or the offending object at a distance. This person or thing should be far enough away that the dog doesn't start barking. It's usually good to position your pet wherever they normally bark, such as at the front door.
  2. Start feeding your pet small amounts of treats. Basically, give enough to keep him or her distracted.
  3. Move the person or object a closer by a few feet. If your dog doesn't bark, great! Keep feeding him or her treats and have the person or object move a little closer.
  4. Stop feeding treats when you dog barks. Now, wait for your pet to calm down. This may take a while. Just don't move the object or person back. You don't want your dog to be rewarded for barking by having the offending person or thing go away.
  5. Feed treats when your pet calms down and try moving the person or object closer again. You may even try to bring a person inside the home.
  6. Don't overdo it. This person or object upsets your pet and can cause anxiety, fear, or even make them lash out by biting if they feel cornered.
  7. Pay close attention to your pet and stop the session when you feel they are getting overly anxious.

You'll need to repeat these sessions multiple times to help your dog become accepting of whatever person, animal, or object is making them bark. Remain consistent in giving treats each time, as this will reinforce the idea the object is good.

The "Speak" & "Quiet" Command

You may also want to experiment with teaching your dog the speak and quiet commands. Once your pet learns to speak, you teach him how to stop speaking, so these commands pair nicely.

  1. Take your dog to a quiet, neutral space to remove any distractions.
  2. Hold up a treat or beloved toy and say "Speak". You'll probably have to do this a lot while your dog tries different things to get the treat.
  3. Give your dog the treat when he or she does finally bark.
  4. Repeat by holding up another treat and saying the command again. You'll want to go over this command during a few sessions to strengthen it. Next, you can start working on the Quiet command.
  5. Give your dog the Speak command while holding the treat. After your dog starts barking, say, "Quiet".
  6. Wait until your dog stops barking, and keep saying quiet. When the dog stops, give him or her the treat.
  7. Repeat this process over and over until your dog can reliably speak and be quiet.

 
Some dogs are stubborn or their owners don't quite get what is making their pets continue to bark. When this happens, you may want to try out the RAPT Method for training an untrained dog. A good series of obedience training videos can help you better understand your dog and help your pet better understand what you want!

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